Thursday, February 4, 2010

How To Install Rigid Foam Insulation On Block Walls How To Install Rigid Styrofoam Insulation On A Below Grade Cinder Block Wall Behind A 2 X 4 Framed Wall?

How to install rigid styrofoam insulation on a below grade cinder block wall behind a 2 x 4 framed wall? - how to install rigid foam insulation on block walls

Our new house was damaged by water on two sides of the basement of several years of a bite splint. Clean gutters, reclassified Landscape - Drywall and insulation have been 3 or 4 months, through many storms and completely dry.

I would like to use more isolated tolerant of wet materials - foam, and paperless drywall. I read many different opinions about how to install insulation.

These are my main issues (ie, Maryland - I guess the weather affect the installation)

1 - If it is a barrier between the foam and concrete block? If the foam is against the law of concrete blocks, laid without a vapor barrier? Should there be an air gap between the concrete block and foam insulation? If it is a barrier of plastic on the other side of the foam insulation against the drywall?

2 - How hard foam insulation hanging on the wall? Liquid nails?

Thanks

3 comments:

Breath on the Wind said...

Good job in handling the original problem. Now, for the repair. You have 3 aspects: loss of heat, water vapor (and, condensation is possible) and groundwater. You will receive a large amount of information of the cross, because this type of insulation is sometimes the external and internal use. The applications are different. Tar, plastic and / or a layer of plaster (mortar) all can be installed to water, which prevent from the field through the wall. Foam can also be applied to the outside for insulation. If the water is already inside of you is another problem, mold, water vapor had (moisture accumulation and) yes, damage to water from the groundwater through the wall.

Unfortunately, there are two things that work against each other. You need to keep air from behind the wall of 2 x 4, moisture against the block wall construction and to promote the development of mold. Will you still air for its insulation properties. (Most insulation contains some means for limiting the convection.) And you need a barrior steam to keep the moisture in the room through the wall 2 x 4and condensation on cold walls of the block.

This philosophy has now isolated as a rule only until the frost line. In its vicinity is likely 2 to 3 meters below ground. Below this point, I think the division is more important than isolation. This isolation makes it easier decisions and work a little harder. You can isolate your 2 X 4 wall insulation fiberglass normal. Be sure to insulate the space between the floor joists above the foundation. While poles are installed plaster for at least 1 / 2 "from the floor. If the draft layout of the basement of the area behind the walls in a range of public services, where they can do their work permits.

Foam which is applied directly to concrete with glue. (Foam and spray can be applied to these shortcomings.) Concrete is not strong and clean and not to put on a good surface for bonding. PL200 is an example.

Side effects and steam barrior still facing an isolation room heating / cooling. If you want to use plastic sheeting as a vapor BarrIER, set poles and see independent ventilation behind the wall.

Is, by foaming at a house in stucco, a gap supported to allow condensation behind it (of water vapor (humidity) of air conditioning) made space on the outside cold, expires. In the case of the interior of the foam insulation higher relative humidity in the room would be on the other side. If water runs through the wall of foam blocks to catch and allow mold to establish the more concerns I have already mentioned. First, build the form, would be caught "in the room, but I prefer to run free and try to avoid giving accumulation.

I hope this explanation is still more confusion.

EDIT: White is the seal to prevent water crossing the wall. It is not as durable as the repair of external leakage, but it is much cheaper. (not required excavation) as a function of surface preparation and the constant presence of water would be expected to last 3 to 5 years.

Jeffrey S said...

I apply for a seal on the wall of concrete blocks, then place the foam directly against the wall. Liquid Nails to work and other construction adhesive, foam-board compatible.

David B said...

The foam axts we speak as a separate vapor barrier. Use construction adhesive to the adhesion of the foam and glue directly to the wall of concrete blocks.

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